Tortilleria

jesustortillasDid you know that you have options when buying tortillas?  Of course, you’ll want to buy them from a tortilleria rather than from the cooler in the aisle at Bodega because they just taste better. But, a true tortillas connoisseur is even more selective when it comes to the staple food product of Mexico.

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Tortillas de prensa are hand pressed tortillas. As you can see on the sign above, this establishment also sells taco tortillas which are smaller than regular tortillas, large huarache tortillas, sopes which are smaller, fatter tortillas with a lip to keep food on top, gorditas, which are smaller, fatter tortillas meant to be sliced open and stuffed, and tostadas (toasted tortillas).  Ladies who run tortillerias de prensa are also your best bet to order corundas (triangle shaped tamales) and tamales in large batches.

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My sister-in-law makes tortillas de prensa. Actually two of my sister-in-laws make tortillas, but one makes much better tortillas than the other. My husband’s aunts also make tortillas. They have one of their children delivery tortillas to homes all around town by bike.  I’ve seen tortillas motorcycle delivery in small towns as well.

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If you don’t have a tortilleria in your immediate area, look for a table and scale set out in front of a house.  Tortillas de prensa are sold there!

IMG_20180412_094619_4CS.jpgThis tortilleria de prensa also offers totopos which are fried tortillas chips.

 

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This is a tortilleria that provides tortillas that come out on conveyor belts. You’ll know if you hear a constant squeaking sound from within. More often, men are in charge of these tortillerias. If you look to the left in the back you can just see a milling machine.  Most of the ladies who make tortillas de prensa bring their nixtamal (corn and lime mixture) here in the wee hours of the morning to have it ground. These would be the ladies you see with two or three paint buckets on a handcart.  Each tortilleria has a slightly different way to make tortillas and you may have to try a few in order to see which place you like the best.

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This tortilleria has specialty tortillas, de harina (flour), integral (wheat), de nopal (cactus), de chipotle, and tortillas for buñuelos which are huge and served fried with honey.  Tortillas here will cost more than regular old tortillas de maiz.

IMG_20180416_120511In our area, the current price for tortillas de prensa is 16 pesos per kilo. Tortillas from the conveyor belt stores are 14 pesos per kilo. Flour tortillas are 22 pesos per kilo. Some tortillerias will knock a peso or so off the price if you bring your own napkin to wrap them in.  Others won’t. You can buy a certain amount rather than kilo, say 10 pesos worth. Considering when we moved here, a kilo of tortillas was 6 pesos, every little bit of savings helps.

Where do you get your tortillas? How much do they cost?

 

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A Day in the Life in Owl Valley

Sarah Sass from Homestead Uncensored has shared a day in her family’s life in Owl Valley.

Today is a bright blue Tuesday in the first months of rainy season.  To tell the story of today as a constant norm is to cheat dry season’s Sundays when abundance is entangled in drought.

There is no typical day here, only the hope that today is what you have prepared for.

Today will look very different from three days from now when calories begin to run low and water levels drop with no guarantee of relief.  Keeping this in mind puts “today” into context, regardless of abundance or lack.

Knowing that rainy season alleviates as much as it exacerbates helps to tell the whole story of a normal day on a homestead in Mexico.

Our days exist in the vesica pisces of harder and smarter.  The meeting place for comfort and the archaic.

Early morning is devoted to animals.  Scythe cuts back alfalfa.  Corn that came in by the ten-thousands is milled to cover the day’s needs.  Three buckets of river water to fill the trough.  Independent cat finds a mouse while hungry dogs play chase underfoot.

This routine is repeated before the sun sets.  Only then, the cat dines on the day’s last basking lizard.

After the final dog is fed, my day of housework begins while my husband makes a mental checklist of the farm’s to-dos over the last cup of coffee.  Today: Cut carrizo for roofing on the new sheep shelter.  Collect mineral-rich “black gold” from the banks of the flooded river to contribute to the piles of goat manure which will feed baby avocado and citrus trees in coming months.  He leaves for the fields with a machete and shovel.

Coffee beans roasted and ground.  Pineapple vinegar started with breakfast scraps.  Harvest is tucked in to begin their fermenting slumber. Kombucha’s black tea steeps while amaranth bread doubles in size.  I sort lentils alongside the six-year-old as he draws the flags of North America and learns that ‘y’ sometimes impersonates a vowel.

All meals and all lesson plans are made from scratch and consume the entire morning.  Everyday.

Halfway through the morning dishes, there is another chore for the list: replenish the household’s 1200 liters of water from downhill.  Before the well can be uncovered, a neighbor, his wife, son, daughter-in-law and toddler grandson are in our living room.  They have come to invite us to their home for tejate.  In the next hour.

The actual act of drinking tejate is all of three minutes, yet this invitation will consume the rest of daylight.  I send along freshly baked muffins in my place.

With water’s return and a house to myself, dishes are finished, floors are swept and mopped, beds stripped and remade.

Barrels of last night’s rain need filtered for laundry.  It has gotten late and afternoon clouds lurk around the adjacent foothills; it’s best to postpone towels and blankets for another day.

Twenty gallons filtered and divided up between buckets posing as washing machines; in dry season they stand in for bathtubs when only warm water will do.

Sheets, pillow cases and throw rugs washed, rinsed and spun.  By hand.  Everything is washed by hand.

Next up kitchen towels and napkins.

Then child’s clothing.

Finally husband’s.

Beginning the cycle again with my clothes in a week from now.

The shortage of time and covered clothesline drags the chore out over five days.

To avoid musty disappointment, I need to catch the early day heat and pre-storm winds, yet outrun her raindrops.  This takes planning.

Rainy season renders the river unusable as the water takes on the hue of ore.  This limits our laundry water supply to what collects in rain barrels.  Assuming storms don’t lose their sense of direction in the dark and head into other foothills, leaving us dry but with a turbulent river.

Once the river settles, washing returns to the banks where under the shade of soap nut trees and ancient Sabinos, socks are scrubbed one-by-one in the canal while the child digs holes in the sand with a chunk of broken coconut shell.  We watch Kingfisher dive among the shallow waters and Crab scuttle; our footprints in the mud alongside the chickens’.

There is a trade-off for laundering in paradise.  Schlepping the wet clothing back uphill to the covered lines, yoked over the shoulders.

Totally worth it.

Agrarian and domestic toil may only appear harder as their true genius is kept secret.  Fifteen hours of laundry strengthen bodies and determination.  Corn harvest pulls us together for weeks as we shuck and grain and retell old stories.   Eating homegrown and foraged meals around a fire under a canopy of stars fills more than ravenous bellies.  Today is always a great day.

In the last minutes of consciousness, a reflection of the day fills me with accomplishment for all the work that was done.  Gratitude that no one was injured, no animals fell prey, and for the rainy hours, we three spent on a 500-piece puzzle of mushrooms, ferns and blackberry bushes.

Before succumbing to exhaustion, I reach for my husband’s hand, both raw from work.  My mind isn’t on tomorrow.  Only the songs of the tree frogs while a swollen river babbles on about cycles, flow, and human’s faulty need for predictable permanence.

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A Day in the Life in San Circo de Acosta

Hi Y’all. My name is Bonnie Bautista.

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I moved to San Ciro de Acosta, San Luis Potosi in October 2017 after losing everything to hurricane Harvey. My husband is from Ciudad Valles which is a few hours away from where we now live.

 

Our days start about 7:30 am when we wake up to go exercise. I walk while hubby jogs 10 laps around the local soccer field.It usually takes 45 minutes. The weather is normally still cool from the night before, averaging about 62 degrees in mornings.

After our walk, we sometimes walk a few blocks over to a local food stand which sells gorditas. I love the chicharron gorditas. If we return home instead of going to eat then hubby goes on a 10-mile bike ride while I prepare breakfast. Normally it is just eggs and chorizo or potatoes and fresh tortillas although I don’t make the tortillas. LOL Sometimes our neighbor boy, who is 11, joins us for breakfast.

Afterward, we shower and drive to next town 45 minutes away to buy supplies for our taco stand. Traffic and parking are a nightmare. I’ve yet to drive here in Mexico. We park on the side of the road and walk to the mercado (market) for vegetables and other supplies needed daily and often stop for a bite to eat as all the walking makes me hungry.

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Upon returning home around 1 pm it’s super hot outside, about 90-95 degrees, so we take a siesta with the fan going full speed. By 4 pm it’s time to prepare the salsas and meat to sell for that day. We open up at 7 pm and stay open until 11 pm. Thankfully the temperature drops back to the 60s once the sun goes down. We work Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. The other days we usually go to the Huasteca area to Tamasopo or Tamul or Ciudad Valles. There are beautiful waterfalls in our area.

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