Category Archives: Mexican Food and Drink

Color me surprised when I discovered the Maya her Koh-key (also spelled koke’) was good old fashioned sarsaparilla and a Mexican native plant to boot. Zarzaparrilla is the Spanish term for the Nahuatl herb, Mecapàtli, heralded by Nicolás Monardes in his book Joyfull Newes Out of the Newfound World (1574) in two entire chapters. He recorded information about a tonic from zarzaparrilla root drunk three times daily for two weeks to sweat out illness. Unsurprisingly, both the “sweat it out” cure and zarzaparrilla root juice is found in traditional Mexican remedies today.

Other names include kgentsililh in Totonac, t’ocnal ts’aah in Huastec, bejuco de canasta (also Philodendron longirrhizum), olcacatzin, zarza parra, cabrestillo, alambrillo, diente de perro, uarhocutaracu sapichu in Purepecha, and cocolmeca, although this term is more often employed to refer to Dioscorea mexicana.

Although there may be as many as 350 worldwide species of this plant, the word zarzaparrilla generally indicates one of five varieties of Smilax used medicinally in Mexico; Smilax spinosa, Smilax domingensis, Smilax ornata, Smilax aristolochiifolia, Smilax moranensis. The rhizome from these plants is used interchangeably in remedies for stomach problems, menstrual disorders, adult-onset diabetes, syphilis, rheumatism, blood disorders, skin inflammations, and diarrhea. 

During childbirth, a decoction made with three fingers of zarzaparilla root and nine thorns from the plant, epazote, sweetened with melipona honey is given to the laboring mother. Although I haven’t seen any studies suggesting zarzaparilla causes uterine contractions, it does have analgesic properties.  

As a blood fortifying tonic, an infusion is made with 80 grams of the zarzaparrilla rhizome for each half liter of water. The root should be soaked for at least 12 hours and then boiled in the same water. Drink three cups daily. Smilax aristolochiaefolia has been shown to aid in the formation of blood cellular components in cases of aplastic anemia, while other varieties of Smilax have demonstrated high anti-hemolytic activity, supporting the traditional use as a blood-fortifier.

For rheumatism, two spoonfuls of chopped zarzaparrilla root (Smilax ornata) and three spoonfuls of chopped cola de caballo (Equisetum hyemale) are boiled in one liter of water for ten minutes. The infusion is covered. Strain and drink every two hours. Studies have shown that Smilax ornata contains significant analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties.

Smilax spinosa is an effective treatment for male impotency because of the estrogenic properties it contains. An infusion for male impotency is made from 1 tablespoon of ground zarzaparrilla root in one liter of boiling water. Allow it to cool, strain, and drink three times a day about 30 minutes before meals. 

For menopausal symptoms, try traditional cerveza de raíz (root beer). Add 7 grams of zarzaparrilla root (Smilax ornata), 1 finger-sized piece of jengibre (Zingiber officinale) cut into pieces but not peeled, 1 vainilla (vanilla planifolia) beanpod (already opened) or two teaspoons of vanilla extract, and two star anise (Illicium verum) pods to four liters of water and bring it to a boil. Turn down the heat and add seven cups of honey. Stir until it dissolves. Strain and allow it to cool. To serve, add two or three tablespoons to a glass of mineral water. Stir and enjoy.

Smilax domingensis is an estrogen agonists, found to be useful in osteoporosis and breast cancer prevention. Smilax spinosa root demonstrates anti-neoplastic effects against breast cancer cells.

Smilax ornata is used to treat ringworm infections in some areas of Guatemala and Mexico. Studies have shown that it has fungicidal and fungistatic activities supporting this traditional use. Smilax ornata root also exhibits antifungal activity and has been shown to be useful in the treatment of yeast infections. 

One syphilis treatment calls for zarzaparrilla root (Smilax aristolochiifolia /Smilax morenensis) and the bark of guayacán de América (Guaiacum sanctum). The two are boiled for two minutes and steeped for 10 minutes before straining. It should be drunk in small doses throughout the day. Smilax spinosa has antioxidative, antibacterial, antiprotozoal, and anti-microbial activities. 

As syphilis is a bacterial infection, zarzaparilla’s antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties are beneficial in treating this and other genital infections. 

A daily tonic infusion for adult-onset diabetes is made with 1 liter of water and 2 grams of zarzaparrilla root boiled for 15 minutes. Strain and drink hot or cold. Smilax moranensis is a α-glucosidase inhibitor, Smilax aristolochiifolia has a proven hypoglycemic effect, and Smilax moranensis inhibits hepatic glucose production, supporting the traditional use for the treatment of diabetes type-2.  

Smilax aristolochiifolia root has been shown to counteract some symptoms of metabolic syndrome, a cluster of conditions that increase the risk of heart disease, stroke, and diabetes, including high blood pressure, high blood sugar, excess body fat around the waist and abnormal cholesterol levels. Studies have shown that the Smilax species are excellent sources of anti-tumor compounds as well. 

El popo is a traditional celebratory beverage that contains zarzaparilla stems found in Veracruz and Oaxaca. It also has pulverized cacao (Theobroma cacao), piloncillo (coned brown sugar), canela (Cinnamomum zeylanicum), anís (Pimpinella anisum), and whole rice. 

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Interested in natural remedies? Uncover herbal remedies from traditional Mexican sources for healing and wellness in the Exploring Traditional Herbal Remedies in Mexico series.