Tag Archives: Cerano

Failing at your own business–Tianguis Flea Market

tiangus cerano

The tianguis in Cerano.

My son has a birthday coming up and we thought to rework his room to reflect his almost-a-man age. So he and I went through his things and took out the younger stuff–like the Bob the Builder suitcase, the Spidey posters, the itty bitty reclining chair and the like, to make room for other more manly decor. But, as funds are tight, we needed to sell the rejected items to buy other items. This meant a trip to Cerano for the Sunday tianguis (flea market).

So we loaded up the truck and headed out early Sunday morning. My husband secured us a puesto (spot). It was a pretty good spot, right next to the ice cream store at the corner of the callejon (alley) that goes to the church. We were up on the bridge that crosses the arroyo (open sewer drain), so by 2 pm the smell was a bit strong, but by then we had done all the business we had hoped to and more, so we left.

The first to greet us after we had our puesto assigned was Cowboy. He hangs about the tianguis asking for handouts and helping merchants unload for a few pesos. Although I hadn’t been to Cerano in over a year, he remembered my name and rushed over to help us unload. My husband gave him 10 pesos for his efforts.

Business was slow but steady in the morning. I let my husband do all the negotiating and just kept an eye on the merchandise. It isn’t like a yard sale, where the prices are ticketed and you pay the price on the ticket. An interested person asks the cost of the item. My husband responds with a price. The potential buyer thinks it over. My husband asks what price would be acceptable. The potential buyer names a price substantially lower than the proposed price. My husband responds with a negative and then points out the special features of the object of interest. Then he names a price 10 pesos lower than the original price. The potential buyer may name another price. My husband may say ‘ni para mi ni para ti’ and offer a different price. This continues until they agree on a price or my husband says the price they want to pay is too low and the deal ends. Occasionally someone walking by will hear the price my husband names and snatch the object at that price, stealing it away from the negotiating buyer. It’s all the same to us.

carnitas de res

Carnitas de res, a speciality from Cerano.

After misa, (mass) things started to get busy. While my husband did his salesman thing, my son and I went to the carniceria (butcher shop) that sells carnitas de res (fried cow pieces). Carnitas are typically made from pig and are not on my list of favorite things to eat, but these carnitas de res make going to Cerano something to look forward to. My husband bought tortillas from the 13-year old son of his cousin who died last year from inhaling light bulb filaments (I’m still not sure I understand that) and we chowed down.

Oh, did I mention that my husband is from Cerano? Cerano is a small town about 30 minutes from Moroleón and as different as being on Venus. The population is said to be about 4,000 and most of them I swear are relatives of his. Well, look that the logistics. My mother-in-law came from a family of 9 children, children of Mama Vira and Papa Rique. Her father Papa Rique also had a lady on the side who had 9 children. My mother-in-law had 11 children, although none live in Cerano at the moment. Her sister Lucia had 9 children, all of which live in Cerano. Her daughters all have 3 children each, some of which live in Cerano. My mother-in-law’s other sister, Tía Lena, the dwarf who owns the bar, has 4 daughters who have a variety of children. Another sister, Tía Jesus (yes, Jesus) has 3 girls. Basically, a good portion of the town reflects my husband’s features, some so closely that at a distance I have mistaken identity. One day, one of his cousins was at the house of the relatives that we were visiting, but without a shirt. I went to scold my husband for taking his shirt off, when I realized, just in time that this person was quite a bit younger than my husband, and wait, wasn’t him at all.

My husband, having lived there until he was 13, can identify and tell the stories of nearly all the residents. One man came along and wanted to buy a palo (shovel) because it would be useful if he were attacked. I thought this was a bit strange until my husband explained that this man was the uncle of Cowboy. OK. All in the family right?

cerano gang

From left to right– A, Mama Vira, my mother-in-law, Tia Jesus, Papa Rique and my son in the front

Mama Vira, Papa Rique and Tia Jesus stopped at our puesto to visit with us. We shook hands all around–our customary greeting. They looked over our things. My husband gave Mama Vira $20 for tortillas and I gave Tia Jesus a flowered comforter that we had out to sell. They shook hands all around again and left, happy with the day’s acquisitions.

cerano gang 2

My husband and Mama Sofia with Tío Felipe lurking in the background

Mama Sofia, the mother of my husband’s father, also passed by. She greeted me amiably enough on her way to buy meat for lunch, but wouldn’t look our way on the way back. Seems she hasn’t forgiven my husband for nearly choking the lights out of her husband, Tio Felipe (not the father of my father-in-law Porfirio who died after being kicked by a burro some 50 years ago) after Felipe had given her a beating. Felipe has tried various times over the years to murder Mama Sofia. I think she recovers out of spite.

Well, sales went well overall. We had $600 take home after paying for the puesto, cleaning fees, ice cream, carnitas, the family handouts and gas for the truck, which is more than I earn in 2 days teaching. It doesn’t pay to go every week, but once every few months is a nice afternoon’s work. Now on to remodeling.

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La Curandera–A Fifth Reading

So after my mother-in-law’s death (See On Life and Liberty), I went for my third time to visit Chencha.

My husband and I arrived at 6:30 and waited until nearly 9 a.m. but we were the first two of the day. My husband went first. He asked about his work opportunities and his mother’s wallet. His egg came back slightly salted, nothing compared to the last time. And Chencha said after this cleaning (3 limpiezas) he should have more options in the way of work. Why he asked about the wallet is beyond me. We already knew that it wasn’t lost at the accident as it turned up later with all the identification, minus the cash of course. Chencha said that the wallet was taken at the hospital when my mother-in-law’s clothes were changed. Again, my sister-in-law L changed her clothes, not the nurses, so it’s obvious to me who emptied that wallet. It’s not important anymore because the money is gone. Chencha went on to say that his mother’s shadow will continue to be with her children until they realize that there isn’t anything they can do for her. There isn’t a way to bring her back, so they need to let her go. She suggested that the family go to Derechos Humanos (The office for Human Rights) in Celaya. I’m not sure if she saw that in that cards or was just giving some advice there, but it seems to be a good idea as there will be no justice here in Moroleón.

Candles are lit at the beginning of a cleansing period.

Candles are lit at the beginning of a cleansing period.

Chencha sold him a candle, la Divina Providencia, (The Divine Providence) and some double luck bath oils. Card Reading $50, Cleansing $50, Candle $40, Bath oils $100. ChanChing! My husband was supposed to mop the house with the bath water and then wash his hands with the little soap afterward. The candle was lit that evening and stayed lit until it burns out. (Get your own candle here Divine Providence (Divina Providencia)

Then it was my turn. She read the cards and said I will live a long time, that I was a good person but I get no credit or assistance of any kind for my efforts, and that I was very intelligent, however, everything that I tried this year had been a complete failure. Every business I started, after just a short time, closed. Then I start another one, and the same thing happens. (Which is true–Taco Express, the Crap shop, my teaching job at the school, and even my private classes had dramatically dropped off.) This is due, she assured me, not to any lack on my part, but that fact that someone was employing black magic against me for a task that I have that is only half complete. She said that I feel a little depressed and alone and frustrated, but that I have many ideas left to try. She told me twice not to lend money to ANYONE because I won’t get it back. I took this to mean my husband as well. She said the legal issue that involved me must be finished, that it will turn out for the benefit of many people, not just me. Of course, I expect this meant the lawsuit with Chuchi since if we win, more than 500 people will benefit and I may yet get electricity. (See Demanda 1 and Demanda 2) She encouraged me not give up, that this can be overcome, that I’ve suffered much since coming to México, but there was a purpose.

She sold me the same bath oils as my husband but not to mop the floor with them. I was to use a green cloth with the bath oils for money and a red cloth for personal relationships, wiping me and anything else that I wanted to have better luck with (like my wallet, my computer, my family etc.) Then she sold me an aromatherapy spray to counteract the black magic. She then told me to buy 2 prayer booklets, El Niño de Atocha and La Divina Providencia and to do both prayers nightly. They were novenas, 9-day prayers, similar to the prayers for the dead we had for my mother-in-law, (See La Novena) however La Divina Providencia is to help with finances and El Niño de Atocha is for a specific request. The spray also has a nice prayer where not just the user but all humans are included in the benefits requested.

Prayers to el niño de Atocha are made when a particular result is desired. The outcome you wish is included right in the novena session.

Prayers to el niño de Atocha are made when a particular result is desired. The outcome you wish is included right in the novena session.

The bath oils started on Monday, but the prayers and spray were for that evening. I tried to talk to my husband about this and he got angry and said that my things were for me and his things were for him and nary the two shall mix. I showed him that the novena (prayer) I had was for the candle he had and that we both had the same bath oils. I tried to convince him using an example of 2 burros in the field. If one burro goes in one direction and the other burro goes in the other direction the field will never get plowed. That, I said, was how we had been working. If we want to improve our finances as a family we had to work together. Then he said that he couldn’t work with me because we had different ideas. And I went back to the burro parable. Finally, he gave in and said maybe it would be ok for him to listen to the prayers, which are more like a little bible reading since I don’t know the hail Mary’s or ritual stuff. The first night’s reading was about the fish and the loaves that miraculously fed thousands, (Matthew 15: 32-38) which I thought very apt since my little bitty salary often was used to feed not just the 3 of us, but also my father-in-law and my 3 brother-in-laws that live in La Yacata since the death of my mother-in-law. She had been the breadwinner in her household.

Prayers to la divina providencia are made for financial favors with special emphasis on receiving each day our daily bread.

Prayers to la divina providencia are made for financial favors with special emphasis on receiving each day our daily bread.

We went again that Friday for a cleansing, which involved a little prayer for our continued existence, some herb branches swished about and the bad humors drawn out into an egg. And that is that.

This time, my father-in-law also went to see Chencha. She told him that he was being blamed for everything, but that he should fight this. She also told him that the accident was not an accident but had been provoked by a woman with long curly black hair who wore large earrings and had eaten at his table. He believes it might be a woman named Rosa from Cerano who bought a lot in La Yacata behind them. Perhaps envy sparked this “spell”. Chencha claims that this woman is now sorry to have done this thing, but it was a little late for sorries.

Five cleansings in and my father-in-law and my husband had clean, full eggs were ready to be “crossed” the next session, while my egg was still in pieces. Chencha gave my husband an amulet, a silver coin of no particular value, that if it turned brown indicated that someone was performing black magic against him.

I, however, was still embrujada (bewitched). The next cleansing came after the unexpected death of my friend el Maestro which affected me quite a bit. I asked if she would read the cards again, and she said that my husband was making my life very difficult in México and bad decisions. (This after a weekend where the police stopped him and relieved him of all the money he had earned during the week.) She told me not to give up and shook my hand, which I don’t ever remember her doing.

Finally, my egg came back clean, but things had already been starting to go my way. I had found some other classes and was feeling a bit better about life. She gave me an amulet to keep in my wallet full of stones to help with my finances.

I can’t say whether it was the cleansing or that the evil spell just ended of its own accord. Sometimes it just may be that we need someone else to tell us that it will be ok, to just hang in there. And so the curandera does have a place in this world I live in. Although I hope that I will not be in need of her services again anytime soon.

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El Velorio –Viewing and Wake

Today marks a year since my mother-in-law was killed by the police. (See On Life and Liberty) The horror, shock and grief have abated for her family some and as death is a part of life, it is necessary to understand some of  the customs surrounding it.
After my mother-in-law’s body was released from the hospital, she was taken to Yuriria for an autopsy since there were legal charges pending.  Her daughter L went in search of clothing to take to the funeral home, where they would clean and dress the body for viewing once the autopsy was finished.  I thought she would need to head out to La Yacata to pick up some clothing from my mother-in-law’s wardrobe, but I needn’t have worried.  L went to a special tailor to have a green and pink satin dress made and a crown of plastic flowers for her head.  Her body was dressed as the Virgin, possibly Santa Gertrudis, in what I thought was burlesque and even for this area was not common, although when I asked locals, they said they had heard of that being done.
Funeral homes come and set up a tent like this one to shade the mourners.

Funeral homes come and set up a tent like this one to shade the mourners.

The funeral home came to pitch a tent for the mourners outside the house before they brought the coffin.  There are funeral homes and salones de velación (places for the public display of the body) in Moroleón, however the poor still open their home for the viewing and wake, as inconvenient as it may be.
cofin 2
Her coffin arrived in the late afternoon and set up in the area adjoining the kitchen.  Large pillar candles were placed one at each corner and remained lit during the entire viewing. As the viewing was extended an extra day, we had to buy another set of candles.  Mourners brought more candles and flowers.
Squash was cut open and placed underneath the casket along with a dirt cross and rosary.  The squash was there to suck out the “cancer” from the deceased.  The nearest I was able to understand is that the squash removes the bad humors from the body in preparation for the spiritual awakening and that as the squash shrivels, the body is cleansed.
Every once in awhile, the women passed inside to rezar (pray with rosary beads) and I was included in this as a daughter-in-law of the deceased.   Being not only foreign but non-Catholic, I was not expected to lead the prayers and I just stood respectfully in silence.  However, the inclusion was a first and demonstrated an acceptance from the ladies of the family that was not extended to M’s American wife, who stayed outside with the men.
The casket was open but my mother-in-law was kept under glass, or rather plexiglass.  Her 88-year-old parents, Mama Vira and Papa Rique, came from Cerano, as did my father-in-law’s mother, Mama Sofia and her husband Tío Felipe.  Everyone was concerned that the viewing and wake might be too much for them at their advanced ages, but instead, it was her niece, daughter of her sister Lucia, that had difficulties.  Later that night, she was rushed to the hospital after having miscarried.  Doctors said that the fetus was malformed and the body took care of it on its own, however, the everyone nodded and said it was only natural that my mother-in-law’s spirit did not want to go alone and so took one of the family to accompany her.  Pregnant women are discouraged from attending for this reason.
In the evening, mourners arrived to accompany the family in their grief.  Some brought flowers, some tequila, some sugar and coffee or bread, as it is custom for the family to host the mourners, providing a beverage and light repast.
Mourners the first night included representatives of the various political parties, PAN, PRI/Verde, PRD, with their candidates very visibly and ostentatiously positioned.
Flowers sent from the PRD candidate, later elected President of Moroleon

Flowers sent from the PRD candidate, later elected President of Moroleon

(See Politicking) My mother-in-law was PAN and although she wasn’t able to participate in this year’s elections, she was well known for past services and honored with a corona (wreath) from the party members.
flores de pan
Super Prez also came to the viewing with secretary R and his brother and the community’s lawyer R2.  Super Prez sent another corona (wreath) from the colonos de La Yacata.
flores de la yacata
My mother-in-law’s co-workers at the Presidency sent a third corona (wreath).
flores de sus companeros de trabajo
Not to be outdone, her son B bought a corona (wreath) twice as big as any of the others and at the crypt positioned it to eclipse the other wreaths, although as the heaviest it unbalanced and broke the stakes of the other wreaths.  I guess that proves that he loved her best.
flores de su familia
Mourners stayed until the early morning hours.  Family members took turns serving coffee and sweetbread to the women and tequila to the men.  Every two hours or so, there was another session of prayer.  In the early morning hours, there was singing.
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