Tag Archives: traditional Mexican food

Pozole

pozole codex

The word pozole, also spelled pozolli or posole, means hominy and is the name of yet another traditional Mexican dish that predates the Spanish conquest. The name comes from the Náhuatl word tlapozonalli which means boiled or fluffy, referring to the corn, or the Cahíta word posoli which means cooked corn.

There are three typical versions. Just like the Mexican flag, there is a red, a white and a green pozole.

Pozole blanco (white) and Pozole verde (green) are often made with chicken rather than pork. The green color comes from the tomatillo salsa added and the red from the chile salsa used.

The soup is garnished with chopped lettuce, onion, cabbage, oregano, radish, avocado, cheese, salsa, chile powder, sour cream and a squirt of lime. Typically these are left out for each diner to add as he or she desires. Instead of tortillas, tostadas are served with this soup.

After you’ve tried this delicious soup, it’s no wonder that the Aztec served pozole only for special occasions, a tradition that continues to this day. (See Christmas Eve, Las Posadas)

The Aztec typically used the meat from the tepezcuintle (a large rodent) and cacahuazintle (large grained white corn) to make pozole.

However, there was also an extra special version made from the meat of human sacrifices.

canibal pozole

This ceremonial pozole was carefully prepared, cooked and shared among participants as part of the holy ritual. The diners were typically the highest level priests and the emperor. Commoners were prohibited this sacred version of pozole. There was a highly symbolic significance to this meal. It was a representation of the duality of life, beginning (the Aztec believed themselves to be the people of the corn) and end (death as the final product). It was considered a holy communion ritual, allowing the those that partook to experience a connection with the gods.

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One of these high holy days that called for the special pozole was the festival Ecalcoaliztli, the meal of Ecatl (meaning cooked corn) in honor of Quetzalcoatl.

Apparently, human meat tasted enough like pork that when pigs were introduced in the diet by the Spaniards, it became the meat of choice for pozole. As there was no ceremony involved, pozole was then available for everyone to eat.

pozole

Although I prefer pozole blanco, my husband loves the pozole rojo. For a time, we sold pozole on Saturdays. (See Failing at your own business–Pozole) My sister-in-law T makes her pozole with pig feet.

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So how do you make pozole, using pork or chicken rather than human mean, of course?

The corn is prepared in the same fashion as the tortilla and tamal masa. My husband often uses red corn rather than white in his pozole, but the procedure is the same.

The chiles are opened and deseeded, boiled until soft (about 30 minutes), then blended with garlic and salt. My husband sometimes adds a little bread or flour to thicken it.  Strain the chile mixture, discarding the solid part.

Brown the pork. Sautee garlic and onion pieces. Add the pork, garlic and onion to a chicken broth and water mixture. Add oregano, a whole garlic, bay leaf, salt and the strained chile. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover and cook about 3 hours. Add the hominy and simmer until the pork falls apart, about another hour. Remove the bay leaf and whole garlic. If the pozole is too thick, add a little more water or broth.

Garnish as desired.

pozole maruchan

Don’t treat someone like pozole who treats you like instant noodles.

And to finish off, how’s this Mexican saying? “No trates como pozole a quien te trata como maruchan.”  Don’t treat someone better than they treat you.

The Write Tribe Festival of Words #5

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Tamales

Did you know that the Maya didn’t make tortillas before 900 CE? The reason archeologists believe the tortilla is a more recent addition to their diet is that no comal has ever been recovered at any excavated sites of periods before 900 CE. So what did the Maya eat? TAMALES!

tamal hieroglyph

Tameles were foodstuff in the Aztec and Maya civilizations as far back as 7000 BC. The Maya even had a hieroglyph for tamales. Since a tamal is individually wrapped, it was the perfect portable food. They were often carried by warriors, hunters and travelers as a sort of meal on the go. Tamales could be reheated over the fire or eaten cold.

A tamal (notice there is not final “e” at the end of the word in singular) is made of masa (corn dough) steamed in a corn husk or banana leaf. The wrapping is not eaten, but we always save our wrappings for the goats. It can be filled with pretty much anything, meat, cheese, fruit, vegetables, chili etc.

 

Tamales-florentine-codex

The Aztec had their favorite fillings. Tamales were often filled with turkey, flamingo, frog, axolotl (salamander), pocket gopher, rabbit, fish, turkey eggs, honey, fruit, squash or beans. Festival tamales were a cut above the rest. Tamales wrapped with amaranth leaves stuffed with greens and served with shrimp sauce were made for the Lord of Fire Xiuhtecuhtli. Tamales filled with beans and chilies were made in honor of the god “Smoking Mirror” Tezcatlipoca. The “Old God” Huehueteotl was honored with shrimp and chili tamales.

Tamales at festivals were passed around in baskets and always held in the left hand. Bad luck would come if you eat a tamal that had stuck to a cooking pot. Aztec women were forbidden to eat these tamales. A pregnant woman who ate a stuck tamal might have pregnancy complications, the child would cling to her womb just like the tamal clung to the side of the pot.

tamales codex

The Maya often had tamales filled with toasted squash seeds, squash flowers, beans, iguana, turkey, deer, and fish. The heart of the deer was used to make tamales for special festivals. They also had unique, elaborate tamales, rolled together and filled together like a jelly-roll, displaying spiral designs when cut. Often the tamales were wrapped in chaya instead of banana leaves or corn husks.

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Traditionally, food preparation was the domain of women. The ties began at birth when the umbilical cords of infant girls were buried under the grinding stone, symbolizing their future occupation. Girls learned at the knees of their mothers from a very young age so that by the age of 13, girls were responsible for grinding maize and food preparation. (See Codex Mendoza)

Women, young and old, participated in the extended tamal preparation in what was called a tamalada.

tamalada

La Tamalada by Carmen Lomas Garza

In Historia general de las cosas de la Nueva España, Bernardino de Sahagún described what he observed in a tamalada in preparation for a festivity.

“Among the ashes was the labor of the old women. They made tamales using dried grains of maize; …they made tamales of meat. Some cooked tamales in an olla. Some washed the maize grains which had been cooked in lime. Some carried and drew water, or poured it. Some broke up, ground, and pulverized cacao beans. Some mixed cooked maize with chocolate. Some cooked stews, or roasted chiles—different kinds of chiles. All night they remained there. Vigil was kept. They kept watch. There was constant awaiting of the light. They sat holding vigil and chattering.”

So how does one make tamales?

The beginning steps to preparing the masa are identical to making tortillas. (See Tortillas)

First, the dried corn is removed from the cob.

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Removing the corn from the cob.

The corn is then sifted to remove stones and dirt, then poured high so that the wind takes any chaff left over. Next corn is then boiled until soft with lime and the husks removed.

This is called nixtamalization.

The softened and peeled corn is then milled. Many tortillerias offer this service as hand grinding with a metate takes much longer. The resulting doughy mix is called masa.

Add melted manteca (lard) or vegetable oil to the masa and mix it until the dough is pasty.

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Corn husks can be bought already dried and flattened.

In addition to the masa (dough), the wrappings need to be prepared. If you are using dried corn husks, soak them in hot water until they are pliable. This could take up to 30 minutes. Drain and then pat dry.

Prepare your filling. For El Dia de Candalaria, we made pork tamales with chile.

In order to form the tamal, take a softened corn husk and spread the masa into a flat rectangle shape. Add the filling in the middle. Roll the husk and fold up it up at the end. Set the tamal upright in a steamer pot with 1 to 2 inches of water in the bottom. Cover and steam on medium-low heat until the dough pulls away from the corn husk. Enjoy!

Only one person should meter mano (put his/her hand in) to load the tamales into the pot, otherwise, the tamales will spoil, or so is the common belief.

The zacahuil tamal, a specialty still made by the Huastecan people, is 3 feet long, weighs about 150 pounds and uses most of the leaves of a banana tree to wrap. It is baked in an oven or in the ground rather than steamed.

As with any other integral part of life, there are several expressions using tamal/tamales found in Mexican Spanish.

The idea of infidelity comes into play again with the expression “Hacer de chivo los tamales” which literally means making tamales out of goat but means you are about to be betrayed by or betray your romantic partner.

Another is “El que obra mal, se le pudre el tamal“, literally, he that works poorly, causes the tamal to go bad. In other words, what comes around, goes around.

Or how about this one–“Para todo mal, un tamal. Para todo bien, tambien.” For everything bad, console yourself with a tamal. For everything good, celebrate with a tamal. With the variety of tamales available, there’s a flavor for every occasion. I’ve also heard this expression with mezcal replacing tamal. That will work too!

And one more–“El que nace pa’ tamal, del cielo le caen las hojas” He that was born to make tamales, the leaves fall from the sky. Once you’ve found your destiny, everything falls into place.

Bet you didn’t know the tamal was so profound, did you?

The Write Tribe Festival of Words #5

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13 Comments

Filed under Carnival posts, Homesteading, Mexican Cultural Stories, Mexican Food and Drink, Native fauna and flora