Driving Hazards–Gas and illumination

“It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to.”–Bilbo Baggins

I’m an East coast girl and thus driving through major headache areas like D.C., Phili or NYC are old hat. However, nothing in my experience ever prepared me for driving in México.

Take, for instance, this last trip to San Miguel de Allende for my residency papers. (See Getting Legal-Trip 1)

It is not uncommon to send a representative to get gas for rural communities that are not near a PenMexWe started out in the morning with a full tank of gas in the truck just in case. Gasolinera (gas stations) are not always where you think they should be. Residents in smaller towns sometimes have to go quite a distance to get gas. It’s not uncommon to send a representative to the gasolinera for several families. Various types of plastic containers are often reused as gas receptacles. I admit, one of our garafones (water jugs) has been converted to a gas container and we keep a second plastic jug (I believe it had windshield wiper fluid in it once upon a time) with a bit a gas behind the seat, just in case.

There have been occasions when we have run out of gas. (See Failing at your own business–Fruit truck) There is nothing to be done but hitch a ride to the nearest gas station and fill some sort of gas receptacle and hitch a ride back. No need to mention that this makes the trip much longer than anticipated.

Then we waited until it was nearly light to begin the trip. Driving at night is not advisable. Very few roads are lit. Cattle, horses, goats and other livestock may be tethered right next to the road for night feedings. This provides a sort of roadside maintenance as well. Bicyclists and walkers are nearly invisible as they head to work.

Puentes de peatones (pedestrian bridges) are not necessarily the shortest distance between two points.

Puentes de peatones (pedestrian bridges) are not necessarily the shortest distance between two points.

In the early morning, chickens, dogs and children may run wild across the road in desperate haste to get to the other side. There are puentes de peatones (pedestrian crosswalks) along high traffic areas, however, the shortest distance between two points is often not over the pedestrian bridge. So it is important to watch for those taking a “short cut” across the highway.

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Getting Legal–Trip 1

In order to avoid denial due to spelling or format errors, I trotted next door and had this office fill out my forms.

In order to avoid denial due to spelling or format errors, I trotted next door and had this office fill out my forms.

I have been living in México for 7 years and every year I go to San Miguel de Allende to the Mexican Immigration office to apply for permission to live here another year. When I entered México, I had a 6-month tourist visa. Then 6 months later, I had an FM-3. I had that for 3 years then moved up to an FM-2. I applied as a dependent familiar (family dependent) since the requirements were not so stringent. When I met the residency requirements, I started investigating what I would need to become a citizen and in order to give up these yearly trips and expenses as exciting as they may be.

First, the immigration office in San Miguel de Allende sent me to the Secretaria de Relaciones Exteriores in my hometown, Moroleón. There I was told that they didn’t do that sort of thing anymore and I would have to go to Morelia. So I went to Morelia and was told that since my legal address was in Guanajuato and Morelia was in Michoacan, I would need to go to León. So I went to León. And in León, I was told that because the name on my passport and Mexican identification was different from my name on my birth certificate, (my passport and ID had my married name) they would have to send my application on to Mexico City for approval. Well, I’m still waiting for that approval.

So thus defeated in my quest to become Mexican citizen last year, this year I went back to San Miguel de Allende to renew my Mexican identification and was told that because I had 4 years with the FM-3 classification I would not be able to get a renewal, unless I left the country and went to a Mexican consulate in the U.S. and started the process over again.

But wait, the law changed last November and I could qualify for permanent residency now. Yippee!! That meant I would no longer need to make the trip to immigration in San Miguel de Allende ever again! But of course, I wouldn’t be able to vote, own a foreign car, become alcalde (mayor) or own property, however, it would make my transition to naturalized citizen that much easier. So I said, sign me up!

Well, of course, it wasn’t that easy. I went the 25th of the month, but my identification didn’t expire until the 2nd of the following month, so my application couldn’t be processed until then. So I would have to come back on the 2nd when my papers could be accepted. Okie Dokie!

In order to not have wasted the trip, we headed next door to the lawyer’s office where we had the necessary paperwork drawn up. I could do it myself, however, I didn’t want my application to be denied on the basis of a spelling error. So the secretary completed my online application, wrote the letter asking for my change of status on the basis of being in the country 4 years and being the wife of a Mexican, took my picture (3 front facing, no earrings, no glasses, no bangs and one side facing, ears exposed), made copies of my Mexican ID, my U.S. passport, my Mexican marriage certificate, and my husband’s ID (IFE). When my husband handed over his ID, I took a quick look at it, and then had to look again. Dios mío! He looked like a serial killer in that picture. I can’t even begin to imagine what the approval committee said when they got a load of him as he looked there. Well, even serial killers have wives I guess.

The secretary gave me all the paperwork and the receipts that I needed to present at Banamex for payment, one for $1000 pesos and a second for $3812 pesos. The immigration office does not accept any sort of cash, all transactions have to be made at the bank. I expect that reduces the number of mordidas (bribes) offered and received. And so, the grand total for my paperwork was $720 pesos, which is about what I earn in a week. Then there were the mordidas in Celaya, (See Driving Hazards) gas, food and hair dye (I wasn’t about to have my application read :entre canas (gray-haired) which in all added another $1000 to that first trip. Cha-Ching!$$$ But I was on my way to permanent residency at long last.

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La Curandera–A Fifth Reading

So after my mother-in-law’s death (See On Life and Liberty), I went for my third time to visit Chencha.

My husband and I arrived at 6:30 and waited until nearly 9 a.m. but we were the first two of the day. My husband went first. He asked about his work opportunities and his mother’s wallet. His egg came back slightly salted, nothing compared to the last time. And Chencha said after this cleaning (3 limpiezas) he should have more options in the way of work. Why he asked about the wallet is beyond me. We already knew that it wasn’t lost at the accident as it turned up later with all the identification, minus the cash of course. Chencha said that the wallet was taken at the hospital when my mother-in-law’s clothes were changed. Again, my sister-in-law L changed her clothes, not the nurses, so it’s obvious to me who emptied that wallet. It’s not important anymore because the money is gone. Chencha went on to say that his mother’s shadow will continue to be with her children until they realize that there isn’t anything they can do for her. There isn’t a way to bring her back, so they need to let her go. She suggested that the family go to Derechos Humanos (The office for Human Rights) in Celaya. I’m not sure if she saw that in that cards or was just giving some advice there, but it seems to be a good idea as there will be no justice here in Moroleón.

Candles are lit at the beginning of a cleansing period.

Candles are lit at the beginning of a cleansing period.

Chencha sold him a candle, la Divina Providencia, (The Divine Providence) and some double luck bath oils. Card Reading $50, Cleansing $50, Candle $40, Bath oils $100. ChanChing! My husband was supposed to mop the house with the bath water and then wash his hands with the little soap afterward. The candle was lit that evening and stayed lit until it burns out. (Get your own candle here Divine Providence (Divina Providencia)

Then it was my turn. She read the cards and said I will live a long time, that I was a good person but I get no credit or assistance of any kind for my efforts, and that I was very intelligent, however, everything that I tried this year had been a complete failure. Every business I started, after just a short time, closed. Then I start another one, and the same thing happens. (Which is true–Taco Express, the Crap shop, my teaching job at the school, and even my private classes had dramatically dropped off.) This is due, she assured me, not to any lack on my part, but that fact that someone was employing black magic against me for a task that I have that is only half complete. She said that I feel a little depressed and alone and frustrated, but that I have many ideas left to try. She told me twice not to lend money to ANYONE because I won’t get it back. I took this to mean my husband as well. She said the legal issue that involved me must be finished, that it will turn out for the benefit of many people, not just me. Of course, I expect this meant the lawsuit with Chuchi since if we win, more than 500 people will benefit and I may yet get electricity. (See Demanda 1 and Demanda 2) She encouraged me not give up, that this can be overcome, that I’ve suffered much since coming to México, but there was a purpose.

She sold me the same bath oils as my husband but not to mop the floor with them. I was to use a green cloth with the bath oils for money and a red cloth for personal relationships, wiping me and anything else that I wanted to have better luck with (like my wallet, my computer, my family etc.) Then she sold me an aromatherapy spray to counteract the black magic. She then told me to buy 2 prayer booklets, El Niño de Atocha and La Divina Providencia and to do both prayers nightly. They were novenas, 9-day prayers, similar to the prayers for the dead we had for my mother-in-law, (See La Novena) however La Divina Providencia is to help with finances and El Niño de Atocha is for a specific request. The spray also has a nice prayer where not just the user but all humans are included in the benefits requested.

Prayers to el niño de Atocha are made when a particular result is desired. The outcome you wish is included right in the novena session.

Prayers to el niño de Atocha are made when a particular result is desired. The outcome you wish is included right in the novena session.

The bath oils started on Monday, but the prayers and spray were for that evening. I tried to talk to my husband about this and he got angry and said that my things were for me and his things were for him and nary the two shall mix. I showed him that the novena (prayer) I had was for the candle he had and that we both had the same bath oils. I tried to convince him using an example of 2 burros in the field. If one burro goes in one direction and the other burro goes in the other direction the field will never get plowed. That, I said, was how we had been working. If we want to improve our finances as a family we had to work together. Then he said that he couldn’t work with me because we had different ideas. And I went back to the burro parable. Finally, he gave in and said maybe it would be ok for him to listen to the prayers, which are more like a little bible reading since I don’t know the hail Mary’s or ritual stuff. The first night’s reading was about the fish and the loaves that miraculously fed thousands, (Matthew 15: 32-38) which I thought very apt since my little bitty salary often was used to feed not just the 3 of us, but also my father-in-law and my 3 brother-in-laws that live in La Yacata since the death of my mother-in-law. She had been the breadwinner in her household.

Prayers to la divina providencia are made for financial favors with special emphasis on receiving each day our daily bread.

Prayers to la divina providencia are made for financial favors with special emphasis on receiving each day our daily bread.

We went again that Friday for a cleansing, which involved a little prayer for our continued existence, some herb branches swished about and the bad humors drawn out into an egg. And that is that.

This time, my father-in-law also went to see Chencha. She told him that he was being blamed for everything, but that he should fight this. She also told him that the accident was not an accident but had been provoked by a woman with long curly black hair who wore large earrings and had eaten at his table. He believes it might be a woman named Rosa from Cerano who bought a lot in La Yacata behind them. Perhaps envy sparked this “spell”. Chencha claims that this woman is now sorry to have done this thing, but it was a little late for sorries.

Five cleansings in and my father-in-law and my husband had clean, full eggs were ready to be “crossed” the next session, while my egg was still in pieces. Chencha gave my husband an amulet, a silver coin of no particular value, that if it turned brown indicated that someone was performing black magic against him.

I, however, was still embrujada (bewitched). The next cleansing came after the unexpected death of my friend el Maestro which affected me quite a bit. I asked if she would read the cards again, and she said that my husband was making my life very difficult in México and bad decisions. (This after a weekend where the police stopped him and relieved him of all the money he had earned during the week.) She told me not to give up and shook my hand, which I don’t ever remember her doing.

Finally, my egg came back clean, but things had already been starting to go my way. I had found some other classes and was feeling a bit better about life. She gave me an amulet to keep in my wallet full of stones to help with my finances.

I can’t say whether it was the cleansing or that the evil spell just ended of its own accord. Sometimes it just may be that we need someone else to tell us that it will be ok, to just hang in there. And so the curandera does have a place in this world I live in. Although I hope that I will not be in need of her services again anytime soon.

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