The Day of the Dead–El Día de los Muertos

catrin

Explaining the significance of this festival to someone who has not experienced El Día de Los Muertos is challenging. The facts are there, easy to find in Wikipedia or other “impartial” sources, but until you stand in front of an altar built for someone you know, you won’t understand.

There are actually 2 days in the festival known as El Día de Los Muertos. During these days, it is believed that the door between the living and the dead is opened for a time and the spirits of the dead come to visit those that remain behind.

November 1st is known in the area that we live in as El Día de Los Angelitos (The day of the Little Angels) and is a day to remember children that have died. As these are private, family gatherings, there is little to note except that there is typically a mass held for the deceased child (See Luctuoso) and toys are brought to the crypt or tomb and left. Special prayers are directed to La Virgen, who lost her own child, in this time of remembrance.

zapotec figure death life

A Zapotec figure representing the duality of death and life.

The more public and better-known festival is November 2, El Día de Los Muertos and its traditions have more to do with the indigenous Mexican than any supposed Catholicism influence. The prehispanic goddess Mictecacihuatl was known as the Lady of the Dead. She was honored during harvest rituals with fire and incense, images of the dead, food offerings in ceramic vessels and flowers. From these traditions comes the modern Mexican belief that souls continue to exist after death in an area similar to the Catholic Purgatory but once called Mictlan, a place of silence and rest. There the souls waited, not for reward or punishment, but for this day when they can return home to visit their loved ones.

lacatrina

(La Muerte) Death is still a Lady in México, now personified as La Catrina. Most Mexicans like to think that the popular image of the Catrina is ancient, but the truth is this caricature of vanity was first drawn by cartoonist José Guadalupe Posada about 100 years ago to poke fun at mestizos (mixed-blood) or indigenas (native people) that pretended to be European. Diego Rivera first used the name Catrina and helped popularize her in his mural, Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central.

suenos de una tarde

Regardless of her origin, La Catrina reigns during los días de los muertos.

face paint catrina

Another Catrina-related tradition is the writing of calaveras literarias (death poems) that poke fun at death. In these short, rhyming verses, La Muerte comes and indiscriminately passes by or takes those mentioned by name in the poem.

calavera_01

frida altar

An altar in honor of Frida Kahlo.

In Moroléon, deceased national and local public figures are honored with altars built in El Centro. More often, altars are built in the homes or at the panteón (cemetery).

baker altar

An altar in honor of a recently deceased local baker including pan de muerto.

ofrenda

The altars may include marigolds, salt, favorite foods presented in ceramic dishes, pan de muerto (a luxurious sugar bread only available during these days) tequila, candles, incense and special personal items.

flower petal art

Each item has its own special meaning and reason for inclusion.

marigold cross

Marigolds are called Flor de Muerto (Flower of the Dead) or cempasuchil (Flower of 400 lives). I imagine it came by its name due to the fact that each petal has the potential to become a future marigold plant, hence each blossom can have many future lives. The strong scent of the flower is thought to lead the spirits home. Sometimes paths of petals lead from the cemetery to the home.

traditional alter

A dirt cross is included at times to remind the living that “From dust we are and to dust we will return.” (See La Novena)

copal altar

Copal is the resinous sap of a tree and has been burned as incense since the time of the Aztecs as an offering to the gods. On the Day of the Dead altar, the scent attracts spirits, drawing them home. It is also used to cleanse the area and to ward off evil.

cantiflas altar

An altar in honor of the deceased Mexican comedian Cantiflas.

Colorful tissue paper, papel picado, is cut into intricate designs and strung to flutter over around the altar. Holydays throughout the year are marked with papal picado strung over processional routes, reminiscent of their use during prehispanic rituals.

sugar skulls

Sugar skulls and figures on sale in el Centro.

You may also find calacas and calaveras on the altars. Calacas (skeletons) are carved wooden or ceramic skeletons often presented in joyous or lewd activities. Calaveras, are sugar skulls made with the name of the dead person written in sugar icing on the forehead and eaten by a relative or friend in honor of the dead.

A crypt decorated for El Dia de los Muertos.

A crypt decorated for El Dia de los Muertos.

At the panteón (cemetery), during this two-day period, families usually clean and decorate graves with ofrendas (offerings). In our case, it meant a trip to my mother-in-law’s crypt, bringing marigolds, candles and a bottle of coke, her favorite beverage. There were hundreds of people at the cemetery, some with lonas (tarps) set up and camp chairs, others perched on buckets playing cards. The families stay long into the night beside the tombs of loved ones telling stories and remembering, weeping and laughing. Some even brought mirrors in hopes of getting a glimpse of the soul as it stops by for a visit. For this one night, the dead are not gone but brought back through the memories of those that remain.

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Mexico’s Seguro Popular–Back for more–Round 2

Archivos at the Regional Hospital in Uriangato

Archivos at the Regional Hospital in Uriangato

The following Sunday, we were back at the Regional Hospital for my husband’s doctor’s appointment. We arrived at the crack of dawn to get a ficha (number) and wait in the Archivos waiting room until the doctor arrived. Well, my husband waited inside, I stayed outside. Those security guards are sure on top of things. And I waited and waited.

At 9:30 my husband came outside and said that the doctor was scheduled to arrive at 11 a.m. and he was hungry. We scrounged around for change and he went and bought two cups of watery arroz con leche, it should have been advertised as leche con un poco de arroz and a hard as rock bollillo (roll). He went back in at 11 a.m. and was told that the doctor would arrive at 2:30 or so. He asked to have his appointment rescheduled, which was written in his little pink book or so he believed.

My doctor’s appointment was scheduled for the 30th. Fortunately, my lab results were in by the 28th. On the 29th, I was organizing my paperwork for the doctor’s appointment and happened to look in my little pink appointment book. To my horror, my appointment had been crossed out and rescheduled for some point 2 months down the line. The way I had been feeling, I knew I wouldn’t be able to make it until then without a refill on my prescription. I freaked out. Seems like my husband had given the archivos lady my little pink book instead of his. Therefore, he didn’t have an appointment and mine had been changed.

Well, nothing to be done but try. We dragged our sorry butts at the break of dawn to the Regional the next day and took note of whom we would be following when the time came to line up. When the desk opened, we lined up. When we arrived at the desk, we explained the situation. The archivos lady made my husband’s appointment and gave me a ficha (number) to see the doctor that morning. Whew!

I checked in with the nurse’s desk, was weighed and measured, checked for diabetes, and had my blood pressure taken. The nurse didn’t think that a doctor would be coming as there were some urgent cases in the hospital. We sat down to wait anyway. Around 10 a.m., I got tired of waiting. A doctor had arrived and was seeing patients, but I didn’t think he was the doctor I was supposed to see. He most certainly wasn’t Dr. J. (See Seguro Popular–Dr J.) So I got up and went to the nurses’ desk to ask, but there wasn’t anyone there. So I went further up to the nurse’s station to ask. I showed my pink book—however as the appointment for today had been crossed out, I had to explain what happened. I was getting a bit cranky. As it turns out, while I was up at the nurse’s station, my number had been called.

Discovering that unpleasant fact when I returned to the waiting room, I rushed the door to the consulting room when it opened the next time, darting in front of a large elderly man. Near tears, I told the doctor that I was number 3 but had been at the nurse’s desk when he called. He nodded and sat down. I told him of my condition and that I felt terrible and here were my lab results. (My TSH level was 40. Normal is under 4.) He asked some questions. I answered. He checked his email on his phone. He told me to sit on the examining table. He checked his phone again. He came and checked my heart and neck. He went back to the desk and checked his phone again. He looked at my chart. He told me I had gained weight. I responded that it certainly wasn’t because more food was available. He checked my lab results. He told me that my TSH levels were bad. He gave me a prescription. Told me to take 2 pills, not 1 and come back in November for another blood test. I left. The entire consultation took less than 10 minutes. I had been waiting 6 hours.

I went and had the prescription filled at the pharmacy at the hospital. Took 2 pills immediately. Went on about my day.

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Mexico’s Seguro Popular–Back for more–Round 1

Blood, feces and urine accepted here!

Blood, feces and urine accepted here!

Six months after my last doctor’s appointment, it was time for another blood workup for hypothyroidism. That’s what I was scheduled for, that’s what I did, even though I had been out of medication for nearly a month and felt awful!

So Sunday morning, I was up and ready to go at dawn, even though the office wouldn’t open until 8 a.m., it being Sunday and all. Having learned from experience that it is a first come, first serve basis for EVERYTHING in México. I marched myself in, without having eaten or had my morning cup of coffee like a good girl, asked who was the last person to arrive, took mental note that I followed the guy with the blue cachucha (baseball cap) and sat down to wait.

At 7:40 a nursey-type person came into the waiting room and told us that we needed receipts from the payments office before we had our blood draws. What? I sat and pondered that a moment and then asked the lady next to me. She showed me a yellow receipt and said I could get it from the office behind us without much hassle. Well, since I didn’t have the receipt, it was a hassle. I had to get up and get in line at the window for the receipt along with about 20 other people.

The lab opened around 8:20 and those with receipts lined up. The payment office was still closed. I lost my place behind the blue cachucha (hat). The security guard kept telling us we were blocking the aisle and that important people couldn’t pass. So someone asked when the payment office would open so that we could get out of the hallway. The guard said sometime between 8:00 and 9:00 a.m. on Sundays. Gee thanks!

Some of those in the receipt line tried to hop back over to the blood draw line but were sent back, tails between their legs. Now it was 8:40 and the lab started calling out patient names and here I was still in the dratted receipt line. Finally, someone arrived, but didn’t open the window until he finished his morning coffee and bolillo (bread). So we waited.

The man behind me commented that it seems the whole purpose of this process was to get us to lose patience and go to a private doctor for our health needs since we (nearly all of us line) had Seguro Popular no contributivo (no co-payment public health insurance) and therefore, there wasn’t a reason to check to make sure our “insurance” would cover the lab work and get this receipt. I commented that if I had the money to go to a private doctor, I certainly would not be wasting my time standing here.

So we continued to wait. Eventually, it was my turn. I handed the clerk my Seguro Popular paper and the lab work authorized by Dr. J. He looked at the paper and looked back at me and determined I would be the spouse, not the primary beneficiary, nor the child. Good thinking on his part. Then we went through the “my last name is F not E and E is my second name” rigamarole. He typed it in and printed out a yellow receipt for me saying that Seguro Popular would cover the lab work.

So I went to stand in the lab work line, which was much shorter now. When it was my turn at the window, I was pleased to discover I was nose level with the feces and urine samples lined up there. We went through the “my last name is F not E and E is my second name” rigamarole again here. The lab tech guy gave me a paper that didn’t have a date stamped to pick up the results but said that I should come back in 15-20 days for them since the TSH test was “special”. I pointed out that my doctor’s appointment was in 2 weeks and he said that maybe it would be in before then. Okie Dokie.

Then I sat down near the other door to wait to be called.

Meanwhile, my long-suffering husband had been waiting outside. He snuck in, past a distracted security guard, to see what the hold up was. I gave him the Seguro Popular paper and his little pink cita (appointment) book and told him to get himself an appointment with the surgeon who did his hernia operation a couple years ago and a physical appointment for our son who needed a medical release form to start secondary school in August. My husband trotted over to archivos (archives) to do just that.

Blood draws done assembly line style!

Blood draws done assembly line style!

All good things come to those who wait and eventually I had waited enough to be called into the blood drawing hallway. The normal seats were taken so I was herded to the way back part next to the freezer full of samples. The guy looked at my arm and seemed taken back. He squeezed and prodded and couldn’t seem to locate a vein he liked. He asked where blood was usually taken–well my arm obviously. Did he think the jugular would be a better spot? More poking and prodding. He wrapped a rubber glove around my upper arm and jammed that needle in. Then flipped off the rubber glove tie which smacked me in the face. I had a bruise for a week from that prick.

He asked for the labels and I told him I didn’t have any and that the vial should be marked “especial” which he did. Then I was free to go.

Cruz Roja in Moroleon

Cruz Roja in Moroleon

My husband also accomplished his mission and had an appointment the following week with the surgeon, however, archives said our son’s physical would need to be done at CAISES. (See Seguro Popular –getting started )That did not happen. We took him to the Cruz Roja, paid $100 for the physical and $50 for the blood type analysis instead. The process took less than 15 minutes. The amount of time we saved was well worth the money.

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