I’ve had it up to here hearing about Mexican Halloween. It isn’t. It isn’t about dressing up, spooky stories, demons, or blood. Not Freddy Kruger, not poltergeists, not witches, warlocks or ghosts. It’s not about haunted houses, trick or treating, carved pumpkins or parades. It isn’t even about death.
It’s about life.
The celebration El Dia de Los Muertos in Mexico is the commemoration of the lives of our dearly departed and the acknowledgment of the loss the living experience with each death. Although I’ve lived in Mexico for almost 10 years, this is only the third year that I have participated in El Dia de Los Muertos events. And why is that? Because up until then, there was no one to visit at the cemetery. Three years ago, my mother-in-law was killed in an accident with a police vehicle. Two years ago, my husband’s grandmother in Cerano died at the age of 89. Now we have family to visit at the cemetery. And we do.
We clean and place flowers. We sit and remember. We laugh, and we cry. It’s more like Memorial Day in the United States. Or maybe Veteran’s day. So it’s hard for me to understand the touristy aspect that has sprung up in larger areas.
The altars that are constructed in the town center in Moroleon are typically in honor of recently deceased community members. It’s a community mourning ritual. There are altars for recently deceased students, teachers, bakers, metalworkers, shopkeepers and more. The platforms constructed outside homes in Cerano are even more personal. So what would motivate someone to go to some community of which they are not a member to gawk at this mourning ritual?
El Dia de Los Angelitos, November 1, is even more personal. Altars constructed in the town center or outside homes are created in memory of children who have died–some recently, some not so recently. It’s a personal homage. It’s not for me to intrude on this public manifestation of grief. After all, it is no more or less than a visible reminder that the dead are gone but not forgotten. Families visit the graves of their “little angels” and leave flowers and toys. Brothers and sisters are made aware that there was another that remains a part of the family although no longer physically present.
The sugar skulls are personal–you don’t buy a bag. You buy one and have a name written on its forehead. The figurines are personal–the catrinas are frolicking about in death much as the deceased did in life–drinking, dancing, singing, making music, even making love. The offerings left at the grave or incorporated into the alters are personal–favorite sweets, favorite toys, favorite drinks. The home altars are personal. Each one is constructed with the deceased in mind.
Perhaps it is the fact that these personal traditions are done publically that gives the impression that it is something to gape at–like one would at the zoo or a museum. Death and loss are not hidden away here. They are accepted as a part of life, not detached from it. Is this idea such a curiosity in modern times that guided tours are needed?
The rituals of El Dia de Los Muertos bring comfort to the living. The altar or ofrenda is constructed just so. The days of remembrance are sacred. But times are changing….
The school board waited until the last possible moment to authorize the day free from classes. The official calendar has November 2 listed as a school day, while November 16 is a non-school day for El Buen Fin, in some effort to compete with the US’s Black Friday. What does that teach the children about the value of tradition?
This year at the panteon (cemetery) in Moroleon there was a sign telling visitors to denunciar (report) people stealing from the graves. What do they steal? Flowers? Children’s toys? A bottle of coke? Who would take these things? For what purpose? Has it really come down to a culture that steals from the dead rather than honors their memories?
Some larger towns and cities now provide parades, contests, theatrical presentations, mass-produced foodstuff, and trinkets. Wal-mart even offers a Halloween/Day of the Dead mixed selection for your buying pleasure. This tradition that in 2003 was named as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity is now up for sale.
But for us, the ritual that is El Dia de Los Muertos remains personal. It reminds us that those that have preceded us in death remain part of our present lives. They helped shaped who we are today. It isn’t a fascination with death. It isn’t an obsession with death. It’s an acknowledgment of death and a celebration of life.
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17 responses to “El Dia de Los Muertos–Visible Mourning”
Nov 16 is not a federal holiday because of El Buen Fin. It is the third Monday of November, the celebration of Dia de la Revolucion, which used to be celebrated on 20 de noviembre.
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Yes, you are correct. The official reason that there is no school is Revolution Day, just as the official reason for no work/classes on Black Friday is Thanksgiving. El Buen Fin has been moved to take advantage of the three-day weekend. Commercialism at its best!
El Buen Fin hasn’t been moved. It’s always been from the third Friday of November until the Monday following.
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In 2011 el Buen Fin was November 18-21, in 2012 November 16-19, in 2013 November 15-18, all of which fell on the third Friday in November as you have said. However in 2014 El Buen Fin was November 14-17 and this year it is November 13-16 both of which are only the second Friday in November. Of course, the change could be so that it doesn’t interfere with el Aniversario de la Revolucion Mexicana which is Friday the 20th but a scheduled school/work day. This holiday is not celebrated on Friday because according to El Ley Federal de Trabajo–El Aniversario de la Revolucion Mexicana is celebrated the third Monday in November unless the 20th happens to fall on a Saturday, then it would be observed the Friday before not the following Monday.
I think it is wonderful of Mexico to remember the dead and wish we did that here in Canada!
It is definitely a unique holiday.
Way to make note of the Halloween elements creeping into Day of the Dead celebrations. The whole reason it´s a good, healthy holiday is precisely that it´s personal, and NOT Halloween-y. (Not that Halloween isn´t fun, but the Day of the Dead is a whole different holiday, and the trend to shove the two together . . . well, you nailed it on the head!)
One of the main reasons why I have embraced Día de Muertos as one of my favorite holidays to celebrate here in Mexico is how personal it all really is. Beautifully written post.
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