Christmas in México–Christmas Eve

pinata December 24th is the final night of Las Posadas.  (See Celebrating Christmas—Las Posadas)  Therefore, the singing, prayers, and piñata are all part of the evening’s activities.  Unlike the other 8 days, there is a Misa de Gallo (midnight mass) afterward.  Traditionally, this is also when the image of the baby Jésus is placed in the manger of the nativity scene. But basically, this night is dedicated to the Christmas Eve feast.  Some homes serve traditional foods such as pozole or tamales, but other families have become more Americanized and serve ham or turkey.

However, my husband’s family is del rancho (from the country) and therefore, we did things just a bit differently. When my mother-in-law was alive, it was customary for all the in-México family to gather together in order to enjoy the largesse of the out-of-México family.  This generosity was usually in the form of some money wired and the subsequent purchase of some meat and tequila.  We would meet up after mass at the house up the hill in La Yacata, for the BYOB (Bring Your Own Bucket) affair. The buckets were arranged around a bonfire big enough to scorch the bejeezus out of both the meat and party-goers, but it was unheard of to have this gathering indoors.  My mother-in-law would serve the meat, and I as was one her least favorite, I had to be content with a mere sliver of bistek (beef) and a few greasy tortillas. Meanwhile, the menfolk, and some of the womenfolk gallivanted around with their tequila and poked at the bonfire every so often.

When my son was smaller, I used his bedtime to retire after my measly meal.  I didn’t see any reason to stay up and outside ‘til the wee hours of the morning in the cold.  My absence, other than a snide remark or two about my delicacy as I left, was hardly noted. Since the death of my mother-in-law, any warped togetherness my husband’s family ever had disappeared and we no longer congregate around the bonfire perched on paint buckets.  The past two years we have made feeble attempts to institute another sort of family gathering for Christmas Eve, but it’s too soon to say if a new family tradition has been adopted.

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Christmas in México—Poinsettias

poinsetta

Poinsettia gone wild!

Everyone knows that the poinsettia was adopted in the United States as a Christmas decoration when Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first United States Ambassador to Mexico, introduced the plant into the United States in 1825.  So since this weed was so highly esteemed by the neighbors to the north, the Mexican too adopted this plant as a holy Christian symbol. 

However, it was valued prior to Christianity reached the shores of México.  The Poinsettia, or Cuitlaxochitl as it was known in Nahuatl, was used by the pre-Hispanic indigenous people to make clothing dyes.  It was also thought to host the souls of fallen warriors.

Then, during the 17th Century, a group of Franciscan priests settled near Taxco and began to use the poinsettia as decoration in the Fiesta of Santa Pesebre and most likely, in their Christmas celebrations.

A relatively modern story evolved to provide rational for its Christmas use.  There are several versions of this story about, and here is one more.

Once upon a time, a young boy was going to see the image of the Christ child at the altar in the local iglesia (church) on Christmas Eve.  He felt bad that he wasn’t able to bring any gifts to lay at its feet.  As he was walking, he saw a green leafy plant by the side of the road.   Having nothing else to bring, he picked the plant and went inside the church.  When he lay the plant by the image of the baby Jésus, it miraculously changed color.  It’s leaves turned bright red.   He knew his gift from the heart had been well received in heaven. From this day forth, this plant has been called La Flor de la Nochebuena.

Other versions follow the same story line, but the gift is given by a little girl. (The Legend of the Poinsettia)

Some versions of this story have the boy actually giving the plant to the baby Jésus like the Little Drummer Boy rather than visiting a local altar, but that just seems too hokey.  This plant is not native to Bethlehem and how a little Mexican indigenous boy found his way to Israel is beyond explanation, so the stories don’t even try.

However it came about, the NocheBuena is now a firmly entrenched emblem of Christmas in México.
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Christmas in México–La Aguinaldo

dino christmas

It is customary for employers to give their employees an aguinaldo (Christmas bonus) the last working day of the year before the official start of the extended Christmas vacation.  By law, the aguinaldo must be paid by December 20.  The amount varies for each employee as it is based on the total number of days worked during the year and the current salary of the employee.  Typically, however, it ends up being about one quicena which is one paycheck when the employee is paid on the 15th and the last day of the month.

Therefore, about the middle to end of December finds the average Mexican temporarily flush with cash.  Of course, this is known to all and results in some extra fleecing by the police in the form of mordidas (bribes).

Last year, my husband went out the first day of vacation to load us up with water so that we wouldn’t have to worry about running out on our days off.  (See Water Woes)  Only he didn’t come home that night.  Needless to say, my son and I were beside ourselves with worry.  He arrived with the truck around 7 a.m. the following day.

It seems what happened was that in El Ojo del Medio de Agua where he was filling our water storage tanks, there was an alleged robbery of a stereo.  The police arrived and searched the truck, my husband and the vehicle and person of another man who was also there filling up water containers.  Not being content at finding nothing of value either in the pockets of the accused or the vehicles, they took both men into custody.  They were taken and held in Yuriria.  My husband didn’t have any cash on him, nor did he have a phone to call me to bring any, plus he hadn’t stolen anything, so did not make the customary mordida (bribe) offer.  The police tried to force him to pay una fianza (bail) before releasing him, but again, he didn’t have any money.

He walked from Yuriria back to where the truck had been left, about 5 miles as the crow flies and drove back home, without a full water load though.

This is not the first time something like this has happened to us around the Christmas season.  The second year we were here, my husband and his brother-in-law were stopped by the police, who had removed any tags that might identify them, although they did not wear capuchis (masks). (See Safety and Security or lack thereof) Even after my husband showed them our permit from the Aduana (customs), his driver’s license, and our marriage certificate, the officers threatened to impound the vehicle.  Between the two of them, they had about $2000 pesos on hand, and that was accepted graciously by said law enforcement with a Merry Christmas to you too.

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