Tag Archives: Christmas traditions in Mexico

Christmas in México–La Aguinaldo

dino christmas

It is customary for employers to give their employees an aguinaldo (Christmas bonus) the last working day of the year before the official start of the extended Christmas vacation.  By law, the aguinaldo must be paid by December 20.  The amount varies for each employee as it is based on the total number of days worked during the year and the current salary of the employee.  Typically, however, it ends up being about one quicena which is one paycheck when the employee is paid on the 15th and the last day of the month.

Therefore, about the middle to end of December finds the average Mexican temporarily flush with cash.  Of course, this is known to all and results in some extra fleecing by the police in the form of mordidas (bribes).

Last year, my husband went out the first day of vacation to load us up with water so that we wouldn’t have to worry about running out on our days off.  (See Water Woes)  Only he didn’t come home that night.  Needless to say, my son and I were beside ourselves with worry.  He arrived with the truck around 7 a.m. the following day.

It seems what happened was that in El Ojo del Medio de Agua where he was filling our water storage tanks, there was an alleged robbery of a stereo.  The police arrived and searched the truck, my husband and the vehicle and person of another man who was also there filling up water containers.  Not being content at finding nothing of value either in the pockets of the accused or the vehicles, they took both men into custody.  They were taken and held in Yuriria.  My husband didn’t have any cash on him, nor did he have a phone to call me to bring any, plus he hadn’t stolen anything, so did not make the customary mordida (bribe) offer.  The police tried to force him to pay una fianza (bail) before releasing him, but again, he didn’t have any money.

He walked from Yuriria back to where the truck had been left, about 5 miles as the crow flies and drove back home, without a full water load though.

This is not the first time something like this has happened to us around the Christmas season.  The second year we were here, my husband and his brother-in-law were stopped by the police, who had removed any tags that might identify them, although they did not wear capuchis (masks). (See Safety and Security or lack thereof) Even after my husband showed them our permit from the Aduana (customs), his driver’s license, and our marriage certificate, the officers threatened to impound the vehicle.  Between the two of them, they had about $2000 pesos on hand, and that was accepted graciously by said law enforcement with a Merry Christmas to you too.

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Christmas in México–Las Posadas

posada

Las Posadas is a 9-day series of community or family gatherings that begin December 16 and end December 24 reenacting the pilgrimage of José y María (Joseph and Mary) from Nazareth to Bethlehem.  According to some sources, this tradition began in 1587 when the priest Diego Soria instituted a series of masses to replace the celebrations that occurred during this same time period to the god of war, Huitzilopochtli.  During this Aztec festival, a slave was selected to represent Quetzalcóatl and sacrificed at the conclusion of the 9 days of festivities, and the temples held ceremonies reenacting the arrival of Quetzalcóatl.

As it is currently observed, family groups or communities take turns hosting the event.  The host family plays the role of the innkeeper, and the visitors are assigned the role of peregrinos (pilgrims) in search of lodging.  The peregrinos (pilgrims) pedir posada (ask for accommodation) in song-form from the host family, standing outside a closed door with lit candles.  The song is funny, irreverent and a bit complicated to sing.  Most participants use cheat sheets provided by the host.  The complete song in Spanish and English can be found HERE.

Once the host “recognizes” Mary and Joseph, the peregrinos (pilgrims) are allowed to enter.  Refreshment is provided by the host, usually in the form of pozole (hominy stew) or another traditional dish and ponche (fruit punch) or canela (hot cinnamon tea).  This is followed by reza (prayers, usually the rosary is recited) and la piñata.  Host families also provide aguinaldos (a bag of treats and fruit) for the departing participants to take with them.

Or so this custom is celebrated in Moroleón.  Once upon a time, before I knew better, I agreed to accompany my mother-in-law to Las Posadas.  Little did I realize that we would be in for a night of posada-crashing.  We drove around until we saw a group of people huddled outside a home and follow them in.  As the whole point of the event is to express hospitality, the host could not ask us to leave although I noticed several dirty looks sent our way.  I, for one, felt extremely uncomfortable eating a stranger’s food and accepting the aguinaldo (treat bag), so much so that I tried to return it, but that wasn’t allowed either.  It’s the season for giving after all and I just further offended that host.  My mother-in-law had no such qualms and ate to her heart’s content, even asking for a second aguinaldo.  After that night, I refused to attend any more posadas that Christmas season, even though there were 8 days left.

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