Tag Archives: Mexico

Failing at your own business–Tortilleria

tortillas

One ordinary Friday afternoon, T, my husband’s oldest sister, suddenly appeared in La Yacata. A co-worker in Nebraska had reported her to La migra (immigration) and she had been fired from a job she had for over 10 years. So she packed her suitcases and caught the next bus back to México, thus avoiding deportation.

After a week of cleaning out her father’s house, as 3 single males do not a clean house make, and visiting Mama Vira and Mama Sofia in Cerano, both of who are in their late 80s, T started casting about a way to make a living.

She decided that making tortillas would be a steady source of income and spent several days looking for a suitable local (commercial space). Finally finding one just off of Morelos (the main street on the closer part of town to La Yacata) she set about cleaning it up and procuring the items she would need to go into business.

She bought a comal (large gas heated circular griddle) and moved the refrigerator from her father’s house in La Yacata to the local. As there isn’t any electricity to run the fridge in La Yacata, this wasn’t as big a sacrifice as it might seem. Then she borrowed the glass vitrina (display case) that we had from the Crappe Shoppe (See Failing at your own business–Crappe Shoppe) and bought a scale to weigh out the tortillas, which can be sold by the kilo or the peso (for instance, a person can buy 1 kilo at 13 pesos or buy 10 pesos of tortillas–less than a kilo). She bought the paper to wrap the tortillas in and the plastic bags and a press. She also purchased a costal (grain sack) of corn and lime.

The first day’s sales were good, over 100 pesos. Day 2 wasn’t so good, only 20 pesos. Day 3 was good again, nearly 70 pesos, but day 4 was terrible, not one kilo sold. T came home in tears and had herself a good cry.

With all her preparations, what she had failed to prepare for was envidia (jealousy). Other ladies in town also have their own tortillerias and don’t take kindly to foreigners setting up shop. Although T had lived in Moroleón for 15 years, she had been gone for over 12, so she was deemed an interloper. I suggested she put up pictures of her mother, who was well known before her death last year (See on Life and Liberty) and maybe even my picture since I’m on my way to being just as famous as La Gringa de La Yacata. With our combined fame, perhaps she would be more accepted until she could establish her own reputation.

Then there was the family discord to contend with. Her sister L also has a tortilleria, although it isn’t anywhere near where T set up shop. After the second bad day, we happened to pass L on her moto and she didn’t even nod in greeting. This made me a bit suspicious and later I asked my husband if maybe L had something to do with T’s poor sales. Of course, he didn’t know but said that his brother M had also passed that day and although he saw them (my husband and T) he did not acknowledge their existence.

Both T’s father and I urged her to not despair, telling her that it takes time to attract clientele, but she has the same impatient disposition as my husband and was ready to throw in the towel after just a week. (See Failing at your own business–Taco Express). Moreover, I told her that the change from living in U.S. to México took some getting used to and she should give herself some time to readjust. I know Moroleón likes to style itself a small city, but there is no getting around the fact that it really is a two-bit town, nothing like Lincoln, NE where she had been living for more than a decade. And then there is the fact that we all live in La Yacata, which isn’t even technically a village yet, without water, sewer or electricity–talk about extreme lifestyle change.

Anyway, T decided not to open the next day and go instead to see Chencha, la curandera (healer or wise woman) (See La CuranderaThe first reading). She wanted to know whether she should give up or keep trying.

So up early on Tuesday, she waited for her consultation. When I talked to her later, she was much calmer about things in general. She said that Chencha had told her to have patience, but that things would be slow for awhile. She told her not to invest heavily in the business right now. She said that she saw T going one day back to the U.S. but by plane. As T has never been deported, there is no impediment to her getting a tourist or work visa, provided she owns property and has the required amount of capital in the bank.

Chencha also said that her sister had done something to cause T’s business to fail, thrown some sort of black magic or curse at the local (commercial space) and that this negative energy had attached itself to her. But T shouldn’t worry. This type of negativity always returned rapidly to the originator (sort of like karma). In order to speed that process up, she gave T a spray, a candle, and some soap and to come back again on Friday for the first of the 3 cleansings. T’s egg had come back salty and half rotten. (See La Curandera–A fifth reading ).

When she talked with her sister M, who is still in Nebraska, M scolded her for going to see Chencha. She told T that she should leave things in God’s hands and not be cavorting with witches. When T told me this, I had to laugh over this so-called piousness from the woman who had me falsify a confirmation certificate for her daughter to complete the requirements for her quinceanera (15th birthday) mass after having failed in her attempt to bribe the priest. I told T that Chencha was a curandera (wise woman), not a witch and that she should do whatever it was that she had been told to do. Her father told her the same, having been cured of a debilitating pain in his back through Chencha’s prayers and herbs some years ago.

The next day, T sold every single tortilla. There wasn’t even a kilo left to bring home for supper. The second day after the cleansing was nearly as good. However, she had a surprise visitor at her local. J, the long lost brother, stopped by and brought tamales he said were from their sister L. After he left, T threw the entire bag into the trash and washed her hands thoroughly, not being sure that the tamales weren’t poisoned or cursed.

After that, things started looking up. She started selling menudo on Sundays and always sold out by 11 a.m. Then she asked my husband to make pozole on Saturdays to sell in the afternoons at the local. She also asked a loan of my glass baking dishes to make flan and cheesecake and began making geletinas (jello) as well. (See Failing at your own business–menudo)

She earns about $100 pesos per day with the tortillas, which is enough to get by on and buy supplies for tomorrow’s tortillas. The same holds true for the menudo, she earns about $100 pesos profit, which in turn pays for next week’s supplies.

But there are days when the bus doesn’t pass and she has to walk all the way to La Yacata after a long day, and the water has run out in the tinaco (water storage tank) so she doesn’t have water to bathe, and the gas runs out in the oven, so she has to gather leña (firewood) to heat tortillas for the afternoon meal and she despairs. These days, I stop by with an emergency chocolate ration and commensurate with her in her misery and we work on coming up with a better plan for tomorrow. What else can we do?

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Rateros–really?

field

So after a hiatus of 6 months, we finally scheduled a community meeting in October. In case you think it’s an easy matter, it took the usual week to deliver the volantes (flyers) and there weren’t enough funds in the Yacata account to pay for our time or to put a “spot” on the radio.

Our main points were: 1–Request payments from those colonos (associates) who have not picked up their certificates ($100 pesos) or paid the $250 pesos for the lawyers. As tesorera (treasurer) I had the honor of reading la lista de verguenza (the list of shame), naming names and pointing fingers at colonos who have yet to pay their dues.

2–La Yacata is not a basurera (trash dump) and each person is accountable for his or her responsible trash or animal feces disposal (See Good Fences make Good Neighbors)

3–Explain the encuesta (interview form) that we would be requesting from each colono (associate) as to whether we could proceed with projects for los servicios (water, sewer and electric) beginning in January 2014. The approximate cost for all the services including pavement was $50,000 pesos per lot. That amount brought gasps of shock. The proposal would be that by December of 2014, all of the aforementioned items would be in place and serviceable. Theoretically of course. Things in México always take longer than anticipated.

4–Mention that there still were no resolutions for the second two demandas (lawsuits) against la colonia (neighborhood) (See Demanda 1, Demanda 2, Demanda 3) but all signs pointed to jail time for the perforador del pozo (well hole digger) and Chuchi. (See Negotiating for La Yacata) although that didn’t mean we would get back any of money stolen by said litigants.

5–Remind the colonos (community members) that is was a crime to cut trees without a permit. We were lucky enough to have someone from the Dept. of Ecologia at the junta (meeting) and were able to put into place a plan for the next time the motosierra (chainsaw) was let loose in La Yacata. (See Good Fences make good neighbors).

6–Ask that the colonos (community members) not lump the current mesa directiva (community leaders) with Chuchi and call us rateros (thieves). These types of comments particularly irritate me. As treasurer, I am responsible for giving an accounting of what money comes in and goes out, which I do every meeting. One colono said that he heard comments to the effect that there was some doubt as to where the money is spent. I about spit fire at that. I said that that simply wasn’t true. I have receipts for all expenditures and that anyone who was interested could come and check my books if they liked. With that, I gave the accounting for the current month. When I said that there was not a single cent left after delivering volantes (flyers) another lady–who had never come to a junta before and had never put a single solitary cent from her own pocket into the community fund–said that it wasn’t possible that it cost $600 pesos for flyers. I clarified that it wasn’t the copies that cost $600 pesos but the delivery. It takes nearly a full week for my husband, my son and I, to write up, organize and deliver the flyers. I snippily asked if there were any volunteers at the meeting that would do this work for free. I think I must have had lightening shooting from my eyes because everybody took a step back and remained perfectly silent. I went on to say that my interest was in the advancement of La Yacata, since I lived here, not the little bit of money that comes in. I think I impressed them with that point because another colono pointed out that we aren’t asking for money, only that those that owe, pay what they owe. The same lady then wanted to know why we didn’t take legal action to get these deadbeats to pay up. I retorted by pointing out that it would cost more to demandarlos (sue) them than we would get. With these cheery points, we ended the meeting and attempted to distribute encuestas (survey sheets).

The irritating lady was still there and wanted to be shown where “her” lots were. I pointed them out on the plan but didn’t have the inclination to walk with her to see them. She went to view “her” kingdom and straight away said she wanted to sell the lot that was up the hill. She turned to me and asked if I would be interested in buying it. I nearly blurted out “sure, with the money that I steal from La Yacata you *$&#)” but restrained myself. I say “her” lots because once upon a time her mother bought these 2 lots. When her mother died, her mother’s husband came and laid claim to them. He paid for the new registration and the $250 per lot for legal defenses. The lots, therefore, are in her step-father’s name and unless he authorizes it, she won’t be able to sell either lot.

My high hopes that perhaps we could advance into the 20th century have been dashed. So few encuestas (surveys) have been turned in that we will have to personally invite all 500+ colonos to come to Super Prez’s office and fill out the form. Of course, this will mean a further tax on my limited time and even more limited resources since La Yacata fund has nothing in it because of point #1–see above. A veces, es muy pesado ser parte de La Yacata. (At times, it’s a heavy load to be part of La Yacata).

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Getting Legal–License to Drive

driver

Most people here drive without bothering to get a license, it’s only a $200 peso fine if you are stopped by the transitos (traffic police) and you don’t have a license. I don’t have a license, although my moto has current placas (plates) and a permiso de circular (permit to drive) and is current in impuestos (taxes) y el refran (a yearly charge instituted to pay for the 1980’s Olympic games that up until 2012 was mandatory for all vehicles).

However, for some who enjoy a challenge, it is possible to get a driver’s license in México.

Here’s my husband’s experience. First, he had to make sure he had an official copy of his Mexican birth certificate, obtained from the civil office in his hometown of Cerano. We actually went to Cerano and applied for a new copy since the copy he had had been issued some 30 years before and was “different” than the newer versions or so they said.

Next, my husband had to obtain his credencial de votar (IFE) which is a voter’s registration card and believe it or not–free. This was obtained at the voter registration area (IFE office). He had to bring proof of residency, like a water bill or rent receipt. At the time, his parents were still living in Moroleón, so we borrowed a water bill from them. He presented his proof of residency along with two testigos (witnesses) who already had IFE cards from Moroleón to sign for him. We had only brought his mother, so she asked the next person in line to sign for him, a relative stranger. No one cared. The card came in about 20 days later and he went back with his receipt to pick it up.

Then my husband had a blood test at a lab to determine what sort of blood he is (o positive). This is listed on the driver’s license, I suppose in the event of an accident.

After that, he had to go to the community center for a physical of some sort. I’m not sure what this was for. His physical condition isn’t listed on the license, but maybe to determine if he was fit enough to drive.

When he had all these documents plus another proof of residency, like the electric bill we again borrowed from his parents, he took the originals and a copy of each to the transito (transit) office. In the office, he was given a few pages of the driving manual, not the entire manual, told to read it and take the test afterward. The first time he missed 7 (you can only miss 5 to pass). So he went back the next day, took the same test and missed 12, the same questions that were right the day before. The third day, he took the same test and didn’t pass again. So he asked what he needed to do to pass and slipped the $200 mordida (bribe) into his folded exam paper. He didn’t need to retake the test, nor take the driving section, nor take the eye exam, although he wears glasses to drive.

He waited around in the office for some other papers, the authorization I believe, which he took to another building, the oficina de recauado (payment office) about 2 miles away and paid there the $515 for a 5-year car driver’s license.

Note: The type of license is very specific. If you are stopped by a transito (traffic police) and have a license to drive a car but are driving a truck, you will get a fine. If you have a license for a moto but are stopped when driving a car, you will be fined. Etc.

Then with the papers marked paid, returned to the first building to receive his license. I haven’t attempted this process yet. I’m sure it will be even more tedious for me and I will need to present even more documentation. I can’t wait to tackle it.

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